Mountmellick Work/Mountmellick embroidery/Irish White Embroidery is a form of whitework embroidery which originated in the town of Mountmellick, Ireland. 

Now whitework has and had been done in Ireland for centuries, just as it's been done virtually everywhere and anywhere there were those who loved to embroider.  Ayrshire needlework/embroidery was very well known, and was done beautifully in Ireland as well as in Ayrshire, Scotland.

Mountmellick appeared in the early 19th century (about 1830) due to the devoted effort of Johanna Carter.  This talented embroiderer and designer "invented" (for lack of a better word) this new and heavier style of embroidery.  Its purpose was to enable the local Irish ladies and girls to earn enough money to live during the times of "declining prosperity".

The threads she chose were white, cotton, and affordable and the ground she chose was white satin "jean", a form of fabric which was used for draperies and upholstery, after the printing was finished.  The shiny side was embroidered upon with the matt cotton thread, giving Mountmellick its characteristic contrast.

It differs from other forms of whitework in a few ways. 

1. First and foremost, it is not delicate in the least. It uses heavy cotton (knitting) yarn or matt cotton, not the mercerized stuff, sewn on stiff and sturdy cotton fabric, so it holds up well to lots of hard washing and is useful for household linens that are used often. Hence, it is quick to work up something. Several weights of threads could be used on the same piece to achieve whatever effect the worker intended.  Crewel needles were preferred...and still are.

(While this style of embroidery has been used on finer fabrics with finer threads, as suggested by Weldon's, the effect is lost and ends up looking like crewel embroidery.  This is not authentic Mountmellick work, though it *is* lovely, and I'm sure helped them sell many more publications.)

2. Mountmellick work is made up of large designs resembling actual flowers and leaves.  The designs were as true to nature as possible, large, bold, well-defined outlines and there is lots of space between designs, helping them stand out.

3. Edges are finished in a buttonhole stitch with a knitted fringe.

4. There is no openwork. All stitching is done on the surface.

5. Stitches include the usual outline stitches: satin, buttonhole, feather, knots, and lots of variations and combinations of these, but Mountmellick work also employs what is known as the Mountmellick stitch.  (Displayed below)

This work was displayed in exhibitions of needlework at the time, and was recognized as a style in its own right.  

This style lapsed in popularity for 10 years or so, until a Mrs. Millner started the Industrial Association in Mountmellick in 1880.  Her stated purpose was "to provide a livelihood for distressed Irish gentlewomen."  Her techniques in marketing were successful enough to enable her to employ 50 or so workers.

These embroidered pieces were purchased by transatlantic passengers, many who were on their way to, or back to,  America, as were the patterns in magazines, as well as women who knew how to do the work.  Weldon's published 4 booklets between 1890 and 1898 devoted to this style, and a few more afterwards, which found their way to the states.

President Kennedy was presented a Mountmellick "white quilt for the white house" during his visit to Ireland in 1963. Mountmellick embroidery has continued to be practiced until this day. I'm so glad!

Resources:

Needlework (England), July, 1997 - This magazine contains a wonderful article about Irish Mountmellick embroidery complete with pictures and descriptions. In addition, there is a pattern for a book cover in this technique.

Some excellent books on the subject:

Mountmellick Embroidery  edited by Jules and Kaethe Kliot.  This is a republication of the Weldon's series, and shows many wonderful stitches and patterns, not to mention finished works.

Mountmellick Work,  Irish White Embroidery  by Jane Houston-Almqvist.  This is a great book, with history, photos, plenty of stitches (including the one illustrated above)  and half of the book is made up of pattern designs.

Recommended websites:

JMD Designs 

The Embroiderers' Guild of America  They frequently have great articles as well as classes.  Join!

Cameoroze.com

http://laois.local.ie/content/10127.shtml

For mountmellick kits try Kaleidostitch.