Quaker, or Philadelphia type needlework, denoted the fine work done from the better dame schools, such as the Bethlehem School of the Moravians. Young ladies were encouraged to learn the finest points and techniques of sewing, as well as cooking and appreciating the fine arts.

Another very famous school was the Westtown Boarding School in PA. A large write-up can be found in the State Annals of Pennsylvania, 1843. It was established in 1794 to promote the teaching of pious living in its students along with classes in embroidery, and "the usual branches of an English and Classical education."

One of the earliest known samplers from this school is by Elizabeth Rowland, with the date done in very neatly sewn roman numerals: MDCCCIII. A signature mark of this school is the classic vine and leaf scroll border used on virtually every sampler made there, and Ms. Rowland's is no exception.

Susanna Cox left behind a sampler she had done dated 1802. There is no "J" following the "I" on her sampler, indicating that it was finished around or prior to 1800 when these two letters were still interchangeable.

Martha Heuling, of Moorestown, NJ, made a lovely sampler in 1809 and has a portrait of the school centered on the front. There are deer frolicking below an unreadable verse which is embroidered within a square-shaped vine at the top.

Some samplers did not include any alphabets at all, merely as many different varieties of stitches as the worker could fit in. These have been done in bands and included lovely pictures of flowers and almost any motif.

An all-white sampler was signed by Mary Jackson, dated 1788. Many darning patterns were worked in white along with some "whitework" embroidery consisting of buttonhole stitches and drawn work.

Abigail Parkman's picture, worked with black silk threads in very fine tent stitch on canvas, is in the Cleveland Museum of Art. It is dated 1758 and depicts a dashing young man extending his left hand towards the back of a "coy" young lady, (at least she's turned away from him with eyes cast down), dressed in a long, brown dress in a beautifully depicted garden. Lots of animals are embroidered everywhere, as well as flowers, trees, houses, or rather estates in the background. It is my understanding that the faces are painted.

Pennsylvania Dutch is a broad term, covering an area more than an era.

A religious sect from Germany/Upper Rhine came to America and settled in Chester County, now Lancaster, around 1722. They called themselves Dutch folk. Now, they certainly aren't the only ones, and better qualified history teachers than I can go into this for you. Their embroidery was uniquely theirs since they were so very isolated from the world at large, for a while anyway…

We have many towels embroidered with their distinctive embroidery, mostly woven strips of fabric, embroidered with dates, initials, small motifs of animals flowers, and birds, especially peacocks. It is said, and written, that the peacocks represented good fortune or good luck, symbolic of the resurrection, emblem of opulence, and was a motif used in Catholic Bavaria along with the lamb.

They were known for their "fraktur" painting, which provided much of the design elements used on these towels. These towels were made by young maidens, woven by them, embroidered and saved for a future marriage, which probably wouldn't allow many opportunities for such fine needlework once the little ones came along.

Drawn work was called "benewaka". Some samplers used "Yankee" motifs and varying threads which demonstrated the needleworker's versatility. Appliqué could be used, large and small wool threads, many different stitches and lots of vibrant colors work together to depict flowers, (tulips), sailing ships, wreaths, clasped hands, birds and animals on hand woven fabric.

Tulips were very close to their hearts, as well as purses, if the Tulipomania craze (late 1600-1700s) was any indication. Surely some had sunk their family fortunes in the speculation of the time, with Holland being very close to Germany. Could this motif have represented wealth? Or was it used as a warning, a remembrance not to become so deeply involved in speculation/money matters/love of money?  Perhaps they just liked the style.

For further reading:

American Needlework  by Georgiana Brown Harbeson  This book has many black and white photos of samplers and pieces of work done throughout the history of our country, as found in private collections and museums.

Samplers & Samplermakers  An American Schoolgirl Art 1700-1850  by Mary Jaene Edmonds   An outstanding collection of color photos and detailed descriptions of the works pictured.  A great achievement.