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Whitework Embroidery in America
Weldon's Encyclopedia of Needlework defines Whitework as: "White embroidery so called from its beginning worked on white material in mercerized cottons... It gave the first idea of lace and may be looked upon as the mother of all lace work." This doesn't tell me a lot. So, white silk on silk isn't whitework? Hm. Erica Wilson describes it as white thread on white ground fabric. This, I like. Whitework embroidery is a term that came about as a result of the French influence of the 1700s. (That's not to say that whitework didn't exist before then.) There are some methods and techniques which are more associated with the term whitework, and these are the ones I hope to explore more fully in the future. It's been conjectured that it may have begun in Egypt. Such lovely and fine fabric naturally belongs in that climate! International trade brought this gorgeous fabric to light. Eastern muslin fabrics were so sheer they were almost invisible, which caused no great stir in the nunneries of Europe. (sarcasm) Nuns wrote their own histories with a needle, and where the fine muslins weren't available, the soft and strong linens that were available were used for depicting any number of biblical stories and symbols for use in the church, white being a symbol of the purity of the Virgin. "The soil of Flanders and the Netherlands seemed particularly suitable for growing flax. So excellent was the Dutch fabric that up until the 18th Century the word for the strongest linen was simply "Holland" or "Holland cloth." --Erica Wilson's Embroidery Book. Though not as fine as the muslin, the nuns learned to withdraw some of the linen threads from the background fabric for a lighter look. This form of open and drawn thread work led the way to "Reticella", where connecting bars made from buttonhole stitches were used across the surface of the linen, and the background was cut away and discarded. This was also called "cutwork". And this led to the view that the background was completely unnecessary! Punto in aria, or LACE! Which does not fit the first definition of whitework as stated above, either, but was certainly a revolutionary idea. Back to embroidery in America: As the wealthy elite left their home countries, some, if not many, found a way to earn a living by teaching the fine art of "French handsewing". The lovely work was just waiting to be learned by American women who had pretty well mastered crewel work and were ready for something new and challenging. These years marked a desire to progress beyond the basics in styles of living, and whitework fit in nicely with the need for beauty and delicate surroundings. A religious group from Germany settled in Pennsylvania in the 1700s and these Moravian sisters advertised their school as a place where fine needlework could be learned as an extra. This style of work endured through the middle of the 19th century, when the beautiful and delicate fabrics used as a base were no longer being made in quantity. They were extremely hard to find, and the invention of the sewing machine did much to eliminate the desire to do the more tedious work by hand. Fashions of the time show costumes that were elaborately constructed, but rarely did they include embroidery. Broderie Anglaise was the simplest of all the different methods of cutwork, which is encompassed by the term whitework. It is a quick way of embroidering ladies' clothes, undergarments especially, children's clothes, and household linens. It is comprised of simple holes, or eyelets, of various shapes and sizes sewed over very carefully and neatly. We find it was frequently combined with sprigs of flowers done in stem or outline stitch and satin stitched flowers. This held up well under harsh washing so was used on children's clothes. Ayrshire needlework was lacy and delicate, using satin stitch, buttonhole stitches, looped fillings and eyelets. This work was in demand in the early 19th century and was sold in many countries. Tambour work was done on gauzy fabric in a tight hoop, and was a craze for some time. Mountmellick embroidery is a type of work done in much heavier threads on denim type cotton fabric, originating in Ireland, and used primarily for home furnishings. There was no open work, just heavier designs and sometimes, more complex stitches displaying a beauty all their own. Another popular form of whitework was candlewicking, revived in the 1980s. The finest whitework was done on cambric and fine muslin, or netting. This was called French embroidery, or French Hand Sewing. The most delicate threads and techniques were utilized to make gorgeous, lacy handkerchiefs, veils, bonnets, cuffs, collars and baby clothes, as well as gifts to very special friends. Many of these articles were preserved for us and can be found in museums as well as private collections. Some families had their portraits painted while wearing these works of art, and in the Historical Society's Museum in Litchfield, Connecticut, is a portrait of just such a family, with the clothing of some of its members in a case beneath the painting! Christening gowns and robes of the time were very heavily embroidered and were most treasured by their owners. Lots of different patterns and stitches were used, with lots of feather stitching all over, leading to flowers made of satin stitch, eyelets, and buttonhole stitches so tiny as to be difficult to see, and almost all with matching bonnets and slips or petticoats. French knots decorated edges. Wedding gowns, too, were embroidered with these techniques, and some of the grooms' clothes, too, were embroidered to match! All over the country, women carried their needlework with them on visits, and traded patterns among friends. Eventually, machine made embroidery became so well done, it was difficult to tell it from the real thing. Hiring someone to make beautiful clothing and home linens was the "in thing to do" in the middle of the nineteenth century. Or better yet, travel to Europe and purchase all that was possible. Berlin work took hold, being easier on the eyes, as well as cross stitch, which could utilize the same patterns if one were clever. Gradually, the lovely art of French embroidery all but disappeared in this country. There are those of us, today, who are trying to learn these techniques. Finding teachers is an ongoing hunt. Dianne Lewandowski is a great, patient and highly skilled teacher, who teaches for the Embroiderers' Guild of America. Her shop, Heritage Shoppe, has many online classes and an informal message board dealing with all hand embroidery, except cross stitch. :) Please visit this wonderful teacher's site.
Last updated: 08/10/10 Based on: Erica Wilson's Embroidery Book by Erica Wilson, a great book to read! Weldon's Encyclopedia of Needlework American Needlework, by Georgiana Brown Harbeson Ayrshire Needlework by Agnes Bryson, a great book of photos! Encyclopedia of Victorian Needlework, Volumes 1 and 2. I prefer these to the original one volume for all of the many sketches of embroidered pieces that make up the second half of Volume 2. Whitework by Jane Dew Heirloom Sewing for Jack and Jill, Grandmother's Hope Chest and Heirloom Sewing for Women, all published by Martha Pullen. These books, and many if not all of her others, are loaded with bits and pieces of published history, and the photos can't be beat. I love every one of them. Margaret Pierce's Heirloom Sewing Series Sarah Howard Stone's 2 books, French Hand Sewing and French Hand Sewing for Infants. Unbeatable. I treasure these two books the most, I think. Lacis' Smocking and Fine Hand Sewing Victorian Crafts by Tracy Marsh Stunning Stitches by Primrose Sully, this one has its moments, and virtually every book, magazine article, internet piece, and conversation I can recall! Such as those found in Sew Beautiful, Creative Needle, EGA's Needlearts, Piecework (a personal favorite for history!), Inspirations, Embroidery and Cross Stitch, and lots of old issues of McCall's Needlework, since it's no longer being published. Rats! Moira Brown has written numerous articles on embroidery and its history. Her website is a joy. And she recommended this antique shop, which always has wonderful photos to drool over. http://lace.lacefairy.com/ID/BroderieAnglaise.html for an article on Broderie Anglaise and more links! |
